The St Kilda archipelago lies 64km to the west of the Outer Hebrides, lashed by some of the fiercest storms in the British Isles. Its four main islands and outlying stacs are home to some 680,000 breeding seabirds, making it one of the largest colonies in the North-east Atlantic and almost double the size of the next largest colony in Britain. Designated as Scotland’s first World Heritage Site for its scenery and wildlife, both on land and in the sea, it ranks with other sites around the world such as the Galapagos Islands and the Great Barrier Reef. It is also a National Nature Reserve. Its spectacular beauty, remoteness, teeming seabirds and unique history of human habitation combine to give it a peculiar fascination.

Inhabited since the stone age, the human community depended largely on the seabirds, relying on them to bring in the bounty of the surrounding seas, whose storminess prevented a fishing culture from becoming established. Their specialised techniques for catching and storing the seabirds remain some of the most prominent features of the culture and archaeology of the islands, the landscape being dotted with the stone cleits built to wind-dry carcases for winter storage in the damp climate. The Soay sheep, the most primitive breed in Europe, surviving unchanged on the islands for at least 3000 years, provide a remarkable living link with these early humans.

The last indigenous people gave up their unequal struggle with the elements and were evacuated in 1930. Today, there is a small radar tracking facility, connected with the missile testing range on Benbecula, and seasonal staff employed by the National Trust for Scotland.

St Kilda is considered to be one of the world's finest dive sites. Clear water, up to 50m visibility, stunning underwater scenery and a huge variety of marine life combine to offer an unforgettable experience.

Our trip to St. Kilda was made aboard the Elizabeth G, an ex-Arctic Rescue Vessel which can get out to the islands, and stay there, in conditions where other boats are forced to turn back. The boat, expertly skippered by Rob Barlow and assisted by two crew (a deck hand and an indispensable cook!) took the fair weather route from Oban, where the boat is based, via Tobermory and through the Sound of Barra on the 12 hour crossing (from Tobermory). The sailing to St. Kilda is rarely flat calm, although we were blessed with calm seas and clear skies. The weather here is no worse than the Western Isles in general, but once you pass through the Outer Isles, sea conditions can be intensified by incoming winds or swell from the Atlantic.

Village Bay on the main island of Hirta offers the only protection for fifty miles in any direction, but in Summer it is often sheltered - during winter storms, huge waves regularly crash over the top of Dun's 170m high cliffs.

During our expedition, we managed to get two excellent days diving in around St. Kilda before an Atlantic weather system moved into curtail our visit. Our journey home was made via the Isles of Skye and Coll with some excellent diving despite the slightly damp weather! All in all, an excellent trip - well worth doing, especially aboard the superb Elizabeth G!